Evans Head and the Broadwater: A Quieter Side of the Northern Rivers
If you are looking for a day trip that feels genuinely off the beaten track, head south from Ballina to Evans Head. This small coastal town sits where the Evans River meets the Pacific Ocean, flanked by two national parks and largely untouched by the tourism that has reshaped much of the Northern Rivers coastline.
It is the kind of place where you can walk a kilometre of beach and not see another person, paddle a glassy river estuary surrounded by birdlife, or sit on a headland and watch whales pass without a crowd. About 45 minutes south of Ballina by car, Evans Head makes for a relaxed and rewarding day out.
The Beaches
Main Beach is the heart of Evans Head. Patrolled by surf lifesavers during warmer months, it is a wide, uncrowded stretch of sand with consistent surf and clean water. On weekdays, you can realistically have the beach to yourself.
Chinamans Beach is a more secluded option, tucked behind the headland and backed by the bush of Bundjalung National Park. It is a short drive and then a walk through native bush to reach the sand, which only adds to the sense of escape.
Airforce Beach, accessible via Bundjalung National Park, is a long stretch of wild coastline backed by sand dunes. It is accessible to 4WD vehicles (a permit and proper setup are required), and the beach camping here is some of the best in the region.
Broadwater National Park
Broadwater National Park sits to the north of Evans Head, stretching between the town and the village of Broadwater. The park covers over 4,000 hectares and includes eight kilometres of pristine beach frontage, remarkable sand dunes dating back 60,000 years and a mix of coastal heath, wetlands and swampland.
It is a paradise for birdwatchers. The swamps and marshlands are home to ibis, herons, brolgas and, if you are lucky, the rare black-necked stork (jabiru) around Salty Lagoon. You may also spot swamp wallabies, echidnas, bandicoots and ringtail possums, particularly in the early morning and late afternoon.
For 4WD enthusiasts, Broadwater National Park offers vehicle-accessible beach driving and basic oceanfront camping. You will need a registered 4WD with low-range capability, a current NSW National Parks vehicle permit, and tyres deflated to around 20 PSI. A recovery kit is strongly recommended, and driving is best done at low tide.
Bundjalung National Park
To the south of Evans Head, Bundjalung National Park is a massive stretch of coastal wilderness covering over 200 square kilometres. The Gummigurrah walking track (3.3 km circuit) takes you through paperbark forest and coastal heath, and koalas are sometimes spotted in the treetops along the way.
Razorback Lookout and Goanna Headland both offer unbroken ocean views and hold deep spiritual significance for the local Aboriginal community. During whale season, these elevated vantage points are excellent for spotting humpbacks and dolphins.
On the Water
The Evans River estuary is calm, sheltered and ideal for kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding. The water is clear enough to spot turtles and dolphins, and the birdlife along the banks is excellent, with pelicans a near-constant presence. If you prefer a rod in hand, the river offers good fishing for flathead, bream and whiting from the bank or the marina (a valid NSW fishing licence is required).
In Town
Evans Head itself is a small, quiet town with a handful of cafes, a couple of pubs and a genuinely relaxed pace. The Evans Head Memorial Aerodrome Heritage Aviation Museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in military and aviation history, with the former WWII airfield providing an unexpected historical layer to the town.
The foreshore parkland along the river is a lovely spot for a picnic, with shelters, barbecues and views across the estuary.
Getting There from Ballina
Evans Head is about 45 minutes south of Ballina by car. The drive takes you through Wardell and the flat farming country of the Richmond Valley before turning east towards the coast. Broadwater National Park sits along the road between the two towns, so you can easily stop in on the way.
From Ramada Hotel and Suites Ballina, it is an easy half-day or full-day trip. Pack a picnic, bring the binoculars and enjoy one of the quietest stretches of coastline in the Northern Rivers.
Book your stay directly and discover the Northern Rivers beyond the headlines.
